I often hear this question from clients: are synthetic fragrances toxic, and how do natural or synthetic fragrances affect our health?
The truth is far more nuanced than any catchy Instagram reel format can capture. So I'll try to lay out my perspective and thoughts.
The Safest Option Is to Use Nothing
When asked whether natural perfumery is safer than synthetic, I usually say: the safest option is to use nothing at all.
Harsh, but true.
Let me explain why.
A Few Facts Worth Knowing
- We live in an increasingly fragranced environment - scented cars, homes, shops, ourselves, and the people around us.
- Every fragrance we inhale consists of molecules. They enter our lungs and, through them, our bloodstream.
- Every essential oil, absolute, or CO₂ extract is a collection of such molecules - from just a few to several hundred compounds. Any natural extract can contain both safer and less safe molecules, and often allergenic ones.
- Isolated individual molecules are also part of perfumery. These too can be safer or less safe.
- Every industry within the EU is regulated by some authority. In Latvia, the Health Inspectorate oversees everything applied to the body or released into indoor air. Cosmetics are primarily governed by EU Regulation 1223/2009.
- Every raw material must have appropriate documentation (SDS), which lists its allergen composition according to the latest EU laws, a safety assessment, and any restrictions that apply.
- When formulating a fragrance, the nature of each ingredient must be considered: allergens and hazardous substances are cumulative. Their use is governed by IFRA standards, while labelling and prohibitions fall under EU cosmetics regulation and CLP.
- The EU regularly expands the list of declarable allergens and updates lists of prohibited substances. Example: EU 2023/1545 expanded the number of declarable allergens to approximately 80 (up from the previous 26), with a transition deadline for new products from July 2026.
The "Synthetic = Safer" Narrative
There's a narrative that synthetic molecules are safer because they don't contain allergens. That's only one part of a broader truth.
Yes - for someone with allergies, natural extracts can be dangerous, while an isolated synthetic molecule may cause no irritation.
But not all synthetic molecules are "clean." Many are themselves allergens or even banned substances. Classic examples: Lyral (HICC) and Lilial (BMHCA) - both synthetic, both banned in the EU specifically due to sensitisation and CMR properties. Safety, therefore, does not depend on whether a molecule comes from nature or a laboratory, but on the molecule itself and its concentration.
The "Natural = Safe" Assumption
Another major issue is that in people's minds, "natural" is often associated with "safe." In reality, natural extracts are extraordinarily complex and concentrated substances. They are, for example, almost never safe to use undiluted directly on the skin.
A second problem is the free availability of essential oils - including those containing carcinogenic or neurotoxic compounds. Yes, those exist too. A few examples:
- Thuja contains thujone - a neurotoxic compound.
- Nutmeg contains safrole and myristicin - safrole is a recognised carcinogen.
- The same principle applies to methyleugenol, which occurs naturally in several essential oils and is strictly restricted in the EU.
It is precisely for these reasons that IFRA and EU regulations restrict or ban these materials - a bottle available in a shop does not mean it is safe to use without knowledge.
So Why Does 13:13 Perfumery Use So Many Natural Extracts?
Honestly - for personal reasons.
I myself don't tolerate synthetic fragrances particularly well. And natural materials have always seemed more beautiful and multi-layered to me. They intrigue me.
But I follow trends, analyse my raw materials, try to eliminate anything toxic or carcinogenic, and apply ingredients only at permitted concentrations. Natural does not mean safe to use in an uncontrolled way.
What Classical Aromatherapy Teaches
And equally important - I remember what classical aromatherapy teaches:
- It is never a good idea to use natural extract products continuously without breaks. It's best to finish a bottle and then switch to something different, to avoid saturation and sensitisation.
- The best "scent" at home and in the car is fresh air.
- Listen to your body and use only what feels pleasant.
- Aromatherapy often recommends not applying fragrances and aromatic products to the thyroid area. (This is a traditional recommendation, not a strict medical fact, but caution does no harm.)
My Conclusions
Given that we live in the EU and are well regulated, it is perfectly normal to use various products - of course, while researching and educating yourself as much as possible. EU-produced products are most likely compliant and safe to use, and from there you can follow your own values: choose natural, vegan, synthetic, or even fragrance-free products.
The main thing is not to overdo anything. And to give your nose and body enough natural freedom: fresh air and time spent in a clean environment.
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