How to Read a Perfume Label's Ingredient List?
EU cosmetics regulation (1223/2009) requires all ingredients to be listed in INCI format, but the fragrance formula may - and most often is - grouped under a single word: "Parfum". Allergens exceeding a certain concentration must be declared. This means that from a label alone, you usually cannot tell whether a fragrance is natural or synthetic, or what it actually contains.
Example 1 - Most likely only synthetic molecules, no allergens
Alcohol Denat., Aqua, Parfum.
The shortest possible ingredient list. The formula is entirely hidden under "Parfum". No allergens listed - meaning the molecules used either don't exceed the regulated concentration thresholds, or were chosen to avoid allergens altogether. Natural extracts are unlikely here, as they often contain several allergens. Commonly found in mass-produced, commercial fragrances.
Example 2 - Natural extracts possibly used, but only mandatory allergens declared
Alcohol Denat., Aqua, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Eugenol, Farnesol, Benzyl Benzoate.
"Parfum" still conceals the full formula - both synthetic molecules and any natural extracts. Allergens are listed because EU Cosmetics Regulation requires it - they must be declared if they exceed 0.001% (leave-on products) or 0.01% (rinse-off). A longer allergen list often suggests the presence of natural extracts, as these naturally contain the highest concentrations of allergenic compounds. However, certainty is impossible, because the industry is NOT required to disclose the full list of raw materials.
Example 3 - Full ingredient disclosure, every raw material listed - the 13:13 perfumery approach
Alcohol Denat., Aqua, Ambroxide, Quercus Robur Wood Extract, 2-Ethenyl-2,6,6-trimethyltetrahydropyran, Ambrein, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Michelia Alba Flower Oil, Ethyl Vanillin, Piper Nigrum Fruit Oil, Cyperus Scariosus Root Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, 10-Undecenal, Linalool, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Limonene, Farnesol, Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Delta-3-Carene, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Isoeugenol.
Here, every natural raw material is listed with its full botanical name - not a requirement, but a choice towards transparency. The long allergen list is a natural consequence of using natural extracts.
What to look for on a label:
- Only "Parfum" with no allergens = most likely only synthetic molecules, with no allergens above regulated thresholds
- "Parfum" with allergens = natural extracts are possible, but not confirmed
- Botanical Latin names = natural extracts voluntarily disclosed
- A long allergen list alongside natural extracts is normal and expected
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